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 THE DIRTY LITTLE SECRET OF IRAs and INVESTING 101

                         

 

IRAs

 

The dirty little secret about IRAs

  

When using the term IRA, I am actually including all tax advantaged retirement plans such as Simple IRAs, 401Ks, Keoghs, SEPS and various other plans for government and non profits.  The common denominator to all of these plans is that they are essentially an IRA of one form or another and are almost always a Traditional IRA.  Therefore, if you participate in any of these plans, you must understand the secret of them.

 

We all know that traditional IRAs are a tax advantaged savings plan which allows you to invest before tax dollars and to have those dollars appreciate without tax in the retirement account.  Compounding is accelerated because no taxes are paid as the account appreciates each year.  The dirty little secret is that taxes are only deferred; they are not avoided.  Furthermore, they are deferred to ordinary income at the time of redemption whereas they might have been taxed as dividend income and/or capital gains if invested outside of the IRA. One might even say that for the privilege of deferring tax on the income placed in an IRA, the IRS converts low tax rate dividends and capital gains into higher tax rate ordinary income to be paid at a future date, and the future tax rate. This guarantees that you pay the highest possible tax on all gains realized throughout the life of the investment. And finally, at age 70 ½, you must take a Minimum Required Distribution, MRD, (and pay income taxes at your highest incremental rate) for the rest of your life, even if you do not need or do not want the additional income. You are denied the option of saving for your heirs thus complicating estate planning.

 

So why do we do traditional IRAs?  When you are just starting out in your retirement investing, it may be a real advantage to invest before tax income dollars as that is more affordable. The theory behind the tax-deferred IRA is that you will be in a lower tax bracket in retirement and thus pay fewer taxes in retirement than you would at the time of investment.  There are three problems with this theory:

 

  1. Often your retirement income after deductions is not much less than your working income; at least that is the goal I set for my clients. Also, the income bracket you are in when you are in your 20s and 30s is almost always lower than the bracket you are in as you approach retirement. Therefore, when you withdraw funds, for you may be in the same or higher tax bracket (most certainly at higher real tax rates) than when you invested and have no real saving.

  2. All gains achieved throughout the term of the investment will be taxed at the ordinary income tax rate at the time of withdrawal.

  3. Taxes today are at an historic low; and I am certain that taxes will be higher in the future.

    Therefore, you will defer taxes at a very low rate today until retirement when you will pay taxes at a higher rate.  That is not what we intend to do.

 

Why is this such an important topic now?  For years you have been allowed to convert traditional IRA to Roth IRAs but there has been a relatively low income cap that prohibited most of us from making the conversion.  In 2010, that cap is removed and everyone at any income level is permitted to make the conversion.  If you are ten years or more away from planning to withdraw funds, or being forced to make an MRD, the most important financial move you can make this year is to convert traditional IRAs to Roth IRAs.  You will need to pay income tax on the funds you convert, but you will pay them at the 2010 and/or 2011 rate which I am confident will be the lowest rates you will see in your lifetime.  You must pay those taxes from sources outside of the IRA, not by law but for maximum leverage, resulting in a new Roth IRA of the exact value of the old traditional IRA.  The difference is the Roth will now be tax free forever with the following benefits:

 

  1. Principle, interest, dividends and capital gains are tax free for you and your heirs.

  2. Gains on the Roth are tax-exempt, not tax-deferred.

  3. Taxes were paid at lowest rate you will ever see.

  4. No MRD required ever; you can leave 100% to your heirs’ tax free.

  5. If needed, you can withdraw part of, or all of the principal at any age without penalty (10% penalty for any withdrawal from traditional IRAs if under 59 ½).

  6. Tax due at conversion can be spread over two years; but I strongly recommend against that due to imminent tax increases. (The 2011 tax rate may well be higher.)

     

When converting a large IRA, there are tax considerations to be made to avoid creeping into the highest tax brackets and you should discuss these strategies with your CPA or tax consultant.  There are many Roth conversion calculators available on the internet; try them out.  Use a calculator that allows you to input future tax rates and be realistic in assuming much higher rates in the future.  I guarantee that all of them will show a major benefit if you are ten or more years from needing the funds or being forced into an MRD, even at constant tax rates.  

 

Remember to grow and preserve wealth, we do not want to defer low taxes today to higher taxes in the future.  We do not want to pay future income tax rates on dividends and capital gains; we prefer tax-exempt to tax-deferred.  And finally, if we are successful in creating and growing wealth, we would like the option of passing that on to our children and grandchildren.

 

Give it some thought.

  

Larry Hollatz, RFC®

 




 INVESTING 101

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Building and Preserving Wealth through Sound Investment 101:

 

In my August 21, 2006, letter, I mentioned that we create and preserve wealth for our children’s education, care of aging parents, and our own retirement.  The dollar value of each and all of those needs can be calculated; and their accuracy is almost entirely dependent upon your assumptions.  Education and parental care are the simplest to compute with retirement the most difficult.  The safest way to ensure adequate retirement funds is to assume that post-retirement spending will be the same level as pre-retirement spending.  Then all you need to do is create and preserve the wealth it takes to achieve those goals.

               

In doing such, I like to break your investment money into three separate piles.  At the risk of sounding too technical, I will refer to them as pile one, pile two and pile three.  Pile one is your retirement fund and includes things like your 401k, 403k, SEP, or whatever other tax deferred plan in which you can participate.  Pile one is the most conservative of your investments where preserving capital is paramount as this money must last you the rest of your life.  Pile two is for wealth growth where you can afford to take more risk in exchange for a greater return.  Pile three is your risk or mad money fund where you can take maximum risk and not be hurt if you lose it all.  Pile one, your retirement fund, should be adequate to support your lifetime retirement needs if all other piles are lost.

                   

For the most secure investing, greatest diversification, and the least number of sleepless nights, mutual funds are the way to go.  This is where you should put your pile one.  As you recall, that is the money you rely on for your minimum retirement account and, therefore, where you want the least risk. It is as important to diversify in your funds as it is in your individual stocks.  You could put all of your money in large cap growth fund and take a beating while the rest of the market roars.   Therefore, I like a blend that includes large growth; small caps; specialty real estate; bonds; moderate allocation; and foreign large growth as a start. You may also consider index funds and ETFs as good, diversified alternatives.  The allocation funds allow the fund manager to move between stocks and bonds as market conditions change.  In theory, they, therefore, make money in up and down markets depending on managers’ market timing skills.  It is important to know what holdings each of your funds owns.  For example, many funds hold GE and you would not want three funds that have the same stock as their top holding.  You would also want to know the top holdings to help make decisions on what individual stocks to own.  For example, as of June 30, last year, the Fidelity Contra Fund had ECA as its top holding and XOM as number five; and I had a major position in both individual stocks in my pile two investments.  That was a warning that I was not as diversified as I thought and it was time to reallocate. 

                 

To stay diversified, you need at least five different funds to encompass many market segments as well as positions in bonds.  It takes a finite amount of time and work to select and manage these funds; and therefore, I would suggest no more than ten funds.  It is also essential to rebalance your funds at least annually and perhaps quarterly, especially in fast moving markets.  If you started by allocating $50,000 across five funds ($10k or 20% in each) and one fund grows at 30% while another stays flat, your allocation will be out of balance at the end of a year with a greater than 20% of your assets in the best performing fund and less than that in some others.  You should reconsider coming back into balance at the end of a year or quarter; or you may believe the trend will continue and choose to stay unbalanced.  The point is it should be an intelligent and considered decision to accept the new allocation percentages and should not be left to happenstance.  It may be especially important to take a look at your bond allocation as bonds will often change in the opposite direction of equity funds.

              

You need to balance the risk in this fund as you must preserve the capital.  You could put all of this into CDs at fixed interest and never lose a cent; but, you then find yourself in purchasing power risk.   That is, if you plan to be retired for many years and the inflation rate is greater than your investment rate of return, you are losing purchasing power.  If your retirement growth rate were 3% less than the rate of inflation, your purchasing power would be cut in half after 24 years of retirement.  We cannot approach this fund with zero risk but instead must manage an acceptable risk. 

 

As outlined above, my recommended allocation of mutual funds in a retirement account has yielded greater than 20% YTD which is a great return for the low risk pile.  It does however, call into question all of the work mentioned in the first part of this letter, the management of pile two, only to achieve similar results. Again, the primary difference is the amount of capital risk you take in each strategy.

                      



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